Porto, the last leg of our trip to Portugal and Morocco
We returned to Portugal from our jaunt to Morocco by heading to the city of Porto, a magical place offering great food, great wine, and incredible Fado. We had visited Porto frequently, but never took the time to tour the city. On this visit, we VRBO’ed in Porto, renting an apartment in the historic center of Porto. We paid $127.00 / night for a three-bedroom, two-bath apartment on the fourth floor of an elevator building. The location was perfect, Rua de Mouzinho da Silveira 85, which was within walking distance to the train station, Sao Bento, Porto’s main train station, the Duro River, and restaurants.
For our first outing in Porto, my wife Miriam had made reservations at Casa Virtude. Casa Virtude is one of the top ten restaurants in the world and is at Passeio das Virtudes, 33, Porto, Portugal. There is a sitting area across the street from the restaurant where locals and visitors alike relax and watch the sunset while enjoying coffee, wine, or a cocktail.
After dinner at Virtude, we took an Uber back to the apartment to enjoy a beautiful evening on the balcony. I picked up two bottles of Portuguese red wine and three Portuguese cheeses. Michael Bennett and I sat on the Balcony until late in the evening enjoying the views, enjoying the view of the Porto Cathedral and the streetscape at night.
Locals and visitors sitting across the street from Casa Virtude to watch the sunset
Casa Virtude, Porto, Portugal, One of the top ten restaurants in the world
View from our balcony in Porto at Mouzinho da Silveira 85
The Porto Cathedral, as seen at night from our balcony
The next morning, we did a walking tour of Porto Central. Our tour guide, Jaime V., with “Take Porto true tours,” was exceptionally knowledgeable about Portugal, especially Porto.
Jaime’s parents attended the University in Porto during the infamous, “Carnation Revolution.” He told us about the stories his parents told him surrounding the days and weeks leading up to the revolution. The secret police and the concentration camp on Cape Verde where political dissidents were sent. The revolution took place on April 24, 1974.
Jaime V.”s badge and website for tours with Take Porto
Jaime took us to the “Clerigos” Church, The Church of the Clergy, which is a landmark in Porto. It has a 225-foot bell tower which you can visit by negotiating its 240 steps, and those that make the climb are rewarded with a spectacular view of Porto.
The Clerigos Church with its Belltower 240 steps up
We also visited the Livraria Lello, the bookstore where, allegedly, J.K. Rowlings wrote her Harry Potter series. There is controversy surrounding that story. When asked, J.K. Rowlings denied ever being in that bookstore.
The Livraria Lello Bookstore In Porto, Portugal, where J.K.Rowlings allegedly wrote the Harry Potter series
If you are interested in visiting the bookstore, purchase tickets online, or get there very early before it opens for business because the lines are quite long.
We next walked to the Sao Bento Train Station. Sao Bento train station is also known for the intricate tile work in its lobby. These 22 thousand tiles tell the History of Portugal in pictures. The stories represent various wars, royalty, and conquest by the Portuguese people. This was our second visit to the Sao Bento Station, but the tile work is incredible and is just another reason to visit Porto. This time, it was seen during a walking tour of Porto Central.
Tile work in Sao Bento Train station, Porto, Portugal
History of Portugal, Sao Bento Train Station, Porto, Portugal
The History of Portugal in Tile, Porto, Portugal
Our tour finished on the shores of the Douro River at the site of the famous and picturesque Dom Luis I Bridge, which crosses the Douro River connecting Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. The bridge was designed by Téophile Seyrig, who previously worked with Gustave Eiffel, of the Eiffel Tower.
The Dom Luis I Bridge across the Douro River
After our walking tour, Miriam, Walidah, and I decided to Uber back to our apartment. Once again, I cannot stress the importance of comfortable shoes for any city in old Europe. The cobblestone sidewalks and streets are not comfortable on hard sole shoes.
Miriam and I ventured out on our own that afternoon to do a bit of shopping and upon return decided to check one of the local restaurants on our block for lunch. We opted for “Healthy Food,” located at R. de Mouzinho da Silveira 195 4000, Porto, Portugal, down the street from our apartment. The food was not only healthy but well presented and tasty, I believe I had the octopus which was indeed delicious. After lunch, we returned to the apartment to rest and prepare for a Fado show scheduled for later that evening.
That evening we planned an evening tour of Porto Central that included a Fado show and dinner. Fado is a traditional Portuguese style of song interpretation. The word “Fado” means destiny or fate. This musical style originated in Portugal in the early 1800s and is performed in intimate candle-lit venues, pubs, cafes, or restaurants. Fado is expressive and melancoly.
Our plans changed abruptly when the tour guide didn’t show up. After waiting an hour, and calling Viator, the company that had arranged the tour, we accepted that we may not experience Fado on this trip. We were wrong.
Not far from the spot we were to meet the tour guide, we found a great restaurant that had a fado show scheduled for that evening.
Trilhos do tomilho II restauarant is located at 79 Rua do Infante D. Henrique. I think there was a cover charge for the Fado show of 5 Euros. The food, wine, and service were excellent and our waiter disclosed that he was from Austin, Texas but had relatives living in Porto, so he decided to move to Porto.
We ordered our starters and settled in for what we thought would be a run-of-the-mill Fado show. We were wrong.
The lights were turned down, candles were lit and the guitar players took their positions in front of the bar, followed by an elderly woman who began her song in Fado style. The music and singing were excellent. After she finished a young man followed her with his side of Fado, and then an accordion player started his rendition of Fado style. The evening was great and when we return to Porto we will certainly plan on a meal at the Trihos do Tomilho II.
The interior of Restaurant Trilho do Tomilhos at Rua do Infante Henrique 77
Accordion player serenading us at the restaurant Trilho do Tomilhos II
From left to right: Michael I Bennett, Walidah Bennett, Armand A.Gonzalzles and Miriam S. Gonzalzles at the Restaurant Trilhos do Tomilhos II
After that wonderful experience, we enjoyed the warm evening as we returned to our apartment. Michael and I sat on the balcony enjoying a glass of Portuguese wine and the nightscape. The next morning we had breakfast at an outdoor café and once again toured the shopping area.
We found a chocolate shop that was having a Port and chocolate tasting later that morning. We went back to the apartment gathered our travel buddies and returned to the chocolate shop for the tasting.
The Vinte Vinte Café located at R. de Guilherme Braga 21, 4400-174 Vila Nova de Gaia, is on a street just minutes away from Mouzinha do Silviera 85and offers visitors tastings of young and aged Port wines with the best chocolate. The pairings were perfect, but more so the ambiance with the straw chairs and bamboo tables.
Vinte Vinte Café, serving chocolate and Port tastings
Walidah Bennett enjoying the Port and chocolate tasting at Vinte Vinte Café
After three days in Porto, we prepared to return to Lisbon for our final few days of enjoying Portugal with friends and family. We had train tickets, but since the train workers were on strike, we canceled the train and opted for the three-hour bus ride to Lisbon. We looked forward to four more days in Lisbo and a return to French Arte and Sofia’s Place for a repeat of fine dining.
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